Jessie Loves: Paris In A Carry-On
Cramming my favorite places in Paris into four days and one carry-on suitcase
In last week’s letter, I shared my list of all my favorite Paris shops. Below, in this bonus issue, a full recap of my four-day trip this month, complete with my perfect itinerary and favorite things to do.
Saturday
We dumped our bags at the beautiful hotel Brian had booked called Le Grand Mazarin. So many pretty details in this place! It’s like a Wes Anderson film come to life.
Then it was straight to my favorite place to eat in all of Paris — Café de Flore. I would have all my meals here if I could. I made sure to stop upstairs at the display case to pick out some plates to bring home with me.
My younger son Harry (14) loves animals so we stopped at Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature. Three separate artistic people in my life (including Julia Rothman (!)) told me this is their favorite museum in all of Paris. It is beautiful and unexpected. A man tapped my shoulder when he saw me by the leopard display and asked to take my picture because I was their twin.
Then I did some shopping. First, I visited Le Bon Marché for the special dog shopping experience they’re holding now. The bonus was seeing so many dogs visiting with their owners. They even had live pet portrait painting! This area of the Left Bank has some of my favorite places to shop.
We went back to the hotel and while Bri took a nap, Harry and I visited the secret underground pool at our hotel. It was such a gorgeous surprise! And the hot tub was totally rejuvenating. I don’t think I’ve ever swam in a more beautiful pool.
We had dinner at our hotel restaurant, Boubalé. I ordered the herb salad and pita. It was delicious and the whole meal came on gorgeous plates.
Sunday
We woke up late due to jet lag. (I used Timeshifter, an app that
recommended in the comments on my travel newsletter, and it was really helpful — all about when to get sunshine and when to avoid caffeine).We took the métro all the way towards the Eiffel Tower to embark on a lunch cruise on Le Capitaine Fracasse. (The train is my favorite way to travel in Paris. It’s so easy!) I’ve done this cruise before and it’s a little touristy but I think it’s such a nice way to see the whole city. The best part is the professional photographer who comes around and takes family photos, which they print out for you to bring home. Such a fun keepsake. The cruise takes 2 hours so that was most of our day.
I split off from Bri and the kids and did more shopping including one of my most favorite shops in all of Paris, Merci. They have a Hello Kitty collab going on at the moment.
We met up for dinner at another favorite restaurant of mine, Loulou, which is right in the Tuileries Gardens by the Louvre. It was delicious but I recommend going in spring or summer. It’s the best experience when you get to eat outside literally in the gardens. Since it was so cold in Paris while we were there, the restaurant was indoors.
Monday
On Monday morning I had booked treatments at one of my favorite hidden Paris gems, O’Kari Hammam. This is a women’s-only spa tucked away on an unassuming street in Les Halles. It’s not fancy by any means but it’s just such a unique experience to have. I got the standard treatment: steam, body scrub, shampoo, plus a 30 minute massage. All for €160 including tip! I was there from 11:00AM - 1:15PM. I think a hammam is one of the best ways to combat jet lag.
Then I met up with Harry who had already mastered wandering around the city on his own. We had lunch and walked all over the place and he indulged me by letting me go to a few more favorite shops including La Droguerie (yarn, fabric, knitting supplies, buttons) and Maison De Vacances.
We had a quick before-dinner drink with a super sweet new friend I randomly met in the hot tub at my hotel, Keith. I love when you meet a new friend while traveling.
Then it was off to dinner at another favorite restaurant, BigLove. It’s Italian and so delicious. They have astrological sign plates. I, of course, asked to have the Capricorn one.
We walked back to the hotel, stopping for gelato on the way.
Tuesday
Our last day in Paris! I took the boys to the trampolines in the Tuileries gardens. They had SO much fun. I bet when they look back on this trip, jumping for 15 minutes on the trampolines will be their most favorite part. Best €10 I spent the whole trip.
Then we visited the Musée des Arts Décoratif. There were several exhibits going on, but I liked the permanent collection best of all.
We walked to lunch again at Café de Flore. (I am a creature of habit). This time we got an outdoor table which was so lovely.
Then my husband and the boys headed off to the train to Amsterdam. I kissed them goodbye. (I had to head back home and they traveled for 7 more days).
I popped into the incredible exhibit at the Alaia Foundation about Alaia and Mugler. I had no idea they were such close friends and collaborators, and their work is so intertwined. It was truly a highlight of the trip for me. I am going to bring my Mugler-obsessed daughter back to see it.
More shopping, including visiting the stunning paper goods and calligraphy store, Mélodies Graphiques, for some gifts for friends.
Then I headed back to the hotel to attempt to cram this entire trip and shopping excursion into my carry-on and LR Dina tote (i.e. the best, most functional travel tote ever). It was a miracle, but I got the thing zipped without having to check any bags! Pro tip: We flew to Paris on La Compagnie. This is a lesser-known airline that has an entire plane of lay-down beds! As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realized it’s just worth it to splurge so I don’t ruin the whole trip being groggy. La Compagnie usually has one flight a day. It is SO much more affordable than beds on other airlines.
What was in my suitcase? All my purchases of course — including two sets of plates (!), my clothes, shoes and so many keepsakes. Peek at last week’s newsletter for my deep-dive on everything I brought home.
What I wore:
Paris happened to be absolutely FREEZING during the time I was there. It got sunny and bright in the afternoons, but it was so much colder than New York.
I ended up wearing jeans and big sweaters, plus my HeatTech leggings at all times. Of course in the pool and at O’Kari, I wore my Left On Friday suit (palm green this time).
On the nights when it warmed up a little I wore my studded brown Landon flats with my jeans. On dressier nights out, I put on our bubble bag and my trusty Cleo boots (which I live in). Here they all are being crammed back into my suitcase.
Any places you love? Any places I missed? (I’ll take any excuse to go back!)
5 things I loved this week:
1. Tulips are on my mind. Especially after this gorgeous shot from
.
How cute is this tulip cake by my friend from growing up, Gillian, who runs Black Jet Bakery?
2. All the amazing reccos I got when I put out an APB looking for a great upholsterer. Now I’m on the hunt for a great “pull handle” for the front door of our new LR shop opening in the West Village very soon (!). Where do people get very high-end, British-ish door hardware? I would love ideas!
3. How cute is this If Only If x
nightgown? I love it so much and can’t wait to style it for daytime too.
4. I BINGED A Body In The Snow: The Trial Of Karen Read. Obsessed, and now watching it for a second time.
5. Our Cooper sneaker in red!!
Au revoir for now! Come back next week for my third and final Paris dispatch.
And one thing I hate:
That I didn’t plant any bulbs in the fall, so I have no tulips popping up in my garden now. Will not be making that same mistake this coming fall.
So glad you love your new nightgown!!! <3
Love all of this and can’t wait to visit!
Two things: Where are your green glasses from? And I think you’ve sold me on the red sneakers. :)